Hicks' Weekly Dish: The wit and wisdom of Chef Shane Chartrand By GRAHAM HICKS first published EDMONTON SUN October 22, 2019

Chef Shane Chartrand, SC Damn Good Food Restaurant at River Cree Resort & Casino, holds a plate of pan-seared strip loin steak, fingerling potatoes and broccolini.Larry Wong / POSTMEDIA NETWORK By GRAHAM HICKS Many years ago, at the opening of the West Edmonton Mall Cactus Club, mall owner (with his family) Nader Ghermezian couldn’t stop singing the praises of a young indigenous chef recently placed in charge of the dining room at the mall’s Fantasyland Hotel. It culminated, a few weeks later, in one of the best multi-course chef’s dinners I have ever eaten. All kinds of wonderful edible things were going on – like meats literally being smoked at the table. The chef was none other than Shane Chartrand, barely out of his ‘20s and already making his mark on the city’s culinary scene. Chef Chartrand’s story was all the more interesting, as he is Cree First Nation, adopted into loving Metis family from Southern Alberta at the age of six. ST ... Read the rest of entry »

Hicks' Weekly Dish: A tale of two burger joints By GRAHAM HICKS, first published EDMONTON SUN October 15, 2019

Winning a comparison between the Fox and Woodshed craft burger eateries was Woodshed's "The Woodshed" burger. Photos by GRAHA M HICKS / EDMONTON SUN Woodshed Burgers 10723-124 St. 780-752-2874 thewoodshedyeg.com Food: 4.5 of 5 Suns Ambience: 3.5 of 5 Suns Service: 3 of 5 Suns 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. seven days a week  (11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays, 9 p.m. Sundays) Dinner for two, excluding beverages, tips and taxes: Basic. $28; loaded, $52. (No publicized delivery service) Fox Burgers 6423 112 Ave. (Gibbard Block) 780-250-0369 foxburger.ca Food: 3 of 5 Suns Ambience: 4 of 5 Suns Service: 4 of 5 Suns Monday to Sunday, 5 p.m. to 11 p.m., closed Tuesdays Dinner for two, excluding beverages, tips and taxes: Basic. $36; loaded, $50 STORY CONTINUES BELOW (No publicized delivery service) By GRAHAM HICKS I liked this idea, a comparison of Edmonton’s two new “craft burger” restaurants. Two well-known chef/entrepreneurs are behind two new, updated, ... Read the rest of entry »

Hicks' Weekly Dish: The demise of the Hardware Grill By GRAHAM HICKS, first published EDMONTON SUN October 8, 2019

Larry Stewart in the remodeled Hardware Grill in Edmonton in this file photo.John Lucas / Edmonton Journal BY GRAHAM HICKS All things must pass. The best restaurants start as exciting culinary adventures. They flourish, lasting much longer than the trendy, all-flash-no-substance eateries. But, eventually, the founders tire.  Other restaurants catch up. Competition increases. The biggest factor will always be the local economy. When it morphs – as Edmonton has done – from buoyancy to stubborn stagnancy, customers rein in their former free-spending ways. STORY CONTINUES BELOW All of the above would have played into the unexpected shutdown of Edmonton’s long-acclaimed Hardware Grill last month. But the biggest culprit, as detailed below,  was debt. The Hardware Grill closure sent shock waves through the city’s hospitality sector. This wasn’t just any restaurant. For 23 years, owners Larry and Melinda Stewart’s pride and ... Read the rest of entry »

Hicks' Weekly Dish: From the ashes of Packrat Louie arises Lyon Restaurant By GRAHAM HICKS, first published EDMONTON SUN August 27, 2019

Lyon's lamb shoulder rack is excellent and, at $20, extremely good value: Photos by GRAHAM HICKS / EDMONTON SUN Lyon Restaurant 10335 83 Ave. NW 780-433-0123 Lyonrestaurant.ca Reservations: Lyonrestaurant.ca/reservations no listed delivery service Mon. to Sat. 4 p.m. to 10 p.m., closed Sundays Food:  4 of 5 Suns Ambience:  4 of 5 Suns Service: 3 of 5 Suns Dinner for two, excluding beverages, tips and taxes:  Basic, $40; loaded, $90 STORY CONTINUES BELOW Welcome back, Packrat Louie! Lyon Restaurant is, in reality, the latest incarnation of the fabled Packrat Louie restaurant in the historic former warehouse in the heart of Old Strathcona. Legendary Swiss chef Peter Johner opened Packrat in 1993. Its reputation, until recently, never faltered. Johner retired in 2006, selling the large restaurant (dining room, lounge, patio) to local investors represented by operating partner Jodh Singh. Singh kept the Packrat Louie kitchen up to standards over the y ... Read the rest of entry »

Hicks' Weekly Dish: The Jollibee phenomenon By GRAHAM HICKS, first published EDMONTON SUN, August 20, 2019

The Valdez family from Leduc waited in a three-hour lineup to eat at the new Jollibee: Left to right, Nathan, 9; dad Ray; The Jollibee mascot, Maechiel, 12; Reychelle, 15; mom Ritchiel. Photos by GRAHAM HICKS / EDMONTON SUN Jollibee 3803 Calgary Trail jollibeecanada.com 586-405-1333 7 a.m. to 11 p.m. seven days a week No specified delivery service Ratings – (within fast food category) Food : 4 of 5 Suns Ambience:  3.5 of 5 Suns Service: 4 of 5 Suns Fast-food dinner for two:  Basic, $15, loaded $25 By GRAHAM HICKS I’d wait a week or more before visiting this phenomenon known as Jollibee … unless you are prepared to wait in line for THREE HOURS! Wowee zowee, you’d think this Jollibee is some kind of superstar, a Connor McDavid, an Oprah Winfrey or the most famous Filipino alive, boxer Manny Pacquiao. Are all these Filipinos lined up to get a superstar’s autograph? Nope. At the end of the long and patient wait is simply the Jollibee brand’s ... Read the rest of entry »

Hicks' Weekly Dish: Say Uncle; bringing Grandma's cooking up to date By GRAHAM HICKS, first published EDMONTON SUN: August 13, 2019

If the beef was less chewy, Say Uncle's stroganoff would have been a winner. Photos by GRAHAM HICKS/ EDMONTON SUN Say Uncle 10184 104 St. 780-540-5369 sayuncle.ca Reservations by phone No listed delivery Mon. to Sun. 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. (earlier on Sundays) Food:  3.5 of 5 Suns Ambience:  3.5 of 5 Suns Service: 3.5 of 5 Suns Dinner for two, excluding beverages, tips and taxes:  Basic, $25; loaded, $40 By GRAHAM HICKS I can see what Say Uncle’s culinary team is trying to get at, but they are not quite there. It’s about creating a dual identity: a comfy restaurant with an extensive craft-beer selection by day, a funky, bright, clean bar with deliberately rustic snack food by night. The food is interesting and quite adventurous. Think of your grandmother’s cooking made contemporary, highlighting root and leafy veggies, lots of fermentation, tenderized cheaper beef cuts, sours and pickles … including pickled eggs like the ones that sat in the big glass ... Read the rest of entry »

Hicks' Weekly Dish: Oliver & Bonacini brings AAA quality to JW Marriott By GRAHAM HICKS, first published EDMONTON SUN, August 6, 2019

Braven's slow-roasted and smoked short rib is served over the creamiest of polentas. Photos by GRAHAM HICKS / EDMONTON SUN The restaurants of the JW Marriott – Edmonton ICE District 10344-102 St. NW Braven 780-784-8580 Reservations: opentable.ca no listed delivery 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. seven days a week Dinner for two (excluding tips, beverages and taxes): Basic, $100; loaded, $200 Kindred 780-784-8576 Reservations: opentable.ca no listed delivery 6:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. seven days a week Dinner for two (excluding tips, beverages and taxes): Basic, $40; loaded $100 RATINGS – for both restaurants Food:  4.5 of 5 Suns Ambience:  4.5 of 5 Suns Service: 4.5 of 5 Suns By GRAHAM HICKS There’s an enormous attraction to brand new – be it a vehicle, a house, a fancy appliance. When it’s a restaurant, the experience intensifies. Carpets are as clean as bed sheets, windows glisten, cutlery, glasses, furniture and decor are all brand new. The experience ... Read the rest of entry »

Hicks' Weekly Dish: Where to eat in Edmonton By GRAHAM HICKS, first published EDMONTON SUN: July 30, 2019

The Brome Lake Duck, yet another perfect dish from The Butternut Tree. Photos by GRAHAM HICKS / EDMONTON SUN It’s an obvious opener, when I am introduced or known to be a restaurant reviewer. “So you write the Sun’s Weekly Dish, eh?  We have a special occasion coming up. Where should we go?” I hate the “it depends” answer. But  it “depends.” Depends on your tastes – do you stick to the tried ‘n’ true? Do you like adventure? A buddy has the most boring tastes imaginable. But he’s a hotdog connoisseur. Depends on your wallet – Are you going to spend $20 or $100 per person? Do you want an extensive wine list, or is “red” or “white” perfectly acceptable? Depends on my memory – What’s most recently reviewed is usually top of mind. Two excellent meals currently loll about my taste buds – at The Butternut Tree in June, the Highlands Golf Course in July. Pampa’s Brazil ... Read the rest of entry »

Hicks' Weekly Dish: Taste of Edmonton satisfies every which way By GRAHAM HICKS, first published EDMONTON SUN: July 23, 2019

Wishbone's nappa salad is finished with roasted peanuts. Graham Hicks/Edmonton SunEdmonton Taste of Edmonton Festival July 18 to 28, 2019 Capital Plaza (99 Avenue and 108 Street) 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily (9 p.m. July 28) By GRAHAM HICKS After 35 years, the Taste of Edmonton, if you’ll pardon the pun, has become a well oiled machine. The number of grease pits in the food booths and food trucks continues to decline. The food variety is such that not a French fry, burger or pizza slice is to be found on the grounds. Hooray. The popular annual food festival, which started July 18 and runs through Sunday, July 28, is taking full advantage of its temporary Capital Plaza location at 99 Avenue and 108 Street. Capital Plaza is more compact than Churchill Square — currently serving as a storage depot as the new surface LRT inches its way into the downtown. But it is most pleasant, and its defined perimeters have enabled — gasp! — the free and open drinking of (on-site purchased ... Read the rest of entry »

Hicks' Weekly Dish: Highlands Golf Club dining room a hidden gem By GRAHAM H ICKS, first published EDMONTON SUN, July 16, 2019

The gorgeous view from the Highlands Golf Club dining room. Photos by GRAHAM HICKS / EDMONTON SUN Highlands Golf Club Dining Room/Spike Lounge 6603 Ada Boulevard 780-474-4211 Highlandsgolfclub.com Reservations by phone no listed delivery Open to the public 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. seven days a week until late fall Dinner for two, excluding tips, taxes and beverages:  Basic, $25; Loaded, $50 Food:  4.5 of 5 Suns Ambience:  4.5 of 5 Suns Service: 3.5 of 5 Suns By GRAHAM HICKS Pssst. I’m letting you in on an Edmonton dining-out  secret. The best food in the city, taking into account quality, variety, price and view, is at The Highlands Golf Club Dining Room. The list of restaurants with scenic river valley views is distressingly short. Downtown are the Chateau Lacombe’s La Ronde, the Hotel Macdonald patio, the Courtyard by Marriot Riverside Bistro (where the food/service is mediocre at best), and a partial view from The Butternut Tree. On the South Side are some t ... Read the rest of entry »